Plums and cherries, tar and roses

More on the question of tasting notes and the modern tendency to recite a litany of fruit flavors: In issue #58 (Summer 2001) of The Art of Eating, Edward Behr writes: "The flavors that have been noted most often in Barolo in the past have been violets, tar, faded roses, and perhaps, leather. Curiously, fruit isn't on the list, but fruit is very much present, often including plums or cherries."

(An aside - I've always thought that someone in Barolo should start a heavy metal band named "Tar and Roses".)

Behr is right on both counts. How fascinating that fruit isn't on the list, despite the fact that fruit is very much present in the wines. The classic descriptions seem to studiously ignore the fruit associations in favor of other aroma and flavor analogies. It would be interesting to know how and when the classic descriptions developed.

Joe Dressner, in his blog entry Wine Tasting, expresses the skepticism that I'm feeling about modern wine tasting notes. He suggests instead:

Why not just sit down with one great bottle. Learn everything you can about the region and producer. Go visit them on a vacation. Immerse yourself. Learn to enjoy wine.

Bravo.